New thermoelectric devices, prepped with a temperature cutoff switch. Originally intended for 12Vdc use in picnic and automotive coolers/ heaters. 127 thermocouples per device. deltaTmax=79degC, Thot=50degC, Vmax=16.1V. 40MM x 44MM x 3.3MM. Qmax=80.6W, Imax=8.1A
Spec sheet available in PDF format.
Customer Comments
A customer from USA
powering from ac
I would like to power this from US ac power...obviously it needs to be rectified to DC but would using AE's CAT# TX-6310 6.3VCT 10 amp transformer connected to a bridge rectifier work? If you can PWM I assume no smoothing is needed. For temp regulation can they be switched on and off at slow(minute) intervals? I read somewhere this could be hard on them.
Thanks
A customer from LA, USA
Power requirements
The power requirements are clear. Multiply the Imax (max. amps) by the voltage. For example 12 volts X 8 amps = 96 watts.
However, on startup the amps are a little higher than typical ratings. I recommend a power supply of at least 125% of power consumption.
Stacking TECs works, but one should stack progressively larger or smaller TECs since the hot side is multiples more efficient that the cold side.
Example: If using TECs for cooling a CPU, put the cold side of a small TEC onto the CPU chip, put a larger TEC ontop of that, etc.
I highly recommend an aluminum plate of about 1/16" thickness between each TEC, but always as large ase the upper TEC.
Example: 1st TEC is 20mm square, second TEC is 30mm square, aluminum plate between the two is 30mm square, etc.
Now, thermal shut-off of TECs using switches such as bi-metal switches is very hard on the life of TECs.
To regulate either the hot or cold side of a TEC without harming the life of the TEC you should use a pulse width modulator. I recommend the PWM's sold specifically for this purpose that you can buy at TETech.com for about $100.00. The same PWM can be used for either the hot or cold side by simply changing a jumper wire.
A customer from los angeles, CA
amazing
i put two in conjunction with each other, hot to cold the hot side of the two was tie wrapped to the bottom of a zalman 9700 cpu cooler, using arctic silver, turned the fan all the way down and ice formed in 5 minutes. i'm putting 13 volts into the two of these and its using about 7 amps. i wonder what 3 would do?
i'm going to need to come up with a solution to take care of the condensation around the chips.
also i'm wondering how much i could crank up my c2d 6300????
i've had it up to 3.4ghz using a chilltec peltier.
but i think i will get better results with these.
any ideas would be appreciated...
A customer from Hansville,Wa USA
as power source
I have used similar devices , I had two in series laying on my wood stove with cpu heatsink and fan on other side, was able to power cpu fan for cooling unit and a 75 led array! no problems until melt down of solder connections because my fire got to hot in my wood stove and once I lost power for cooling, whole unit melted. Was pretty neat while it lasted, as far as efficent, its wasted heat producing free energy. I just placed an order for these to try again. need to limit temp on hot side to prevent solder failure. Free Power to the people, lol. Hope that gets others playing with 'em
A customer from Cambridge, Ma
PC Cooling
1 of these devices should be able to handle anything your computer can through at it esspecially if you liquid cool one side, I am planning on doing the same thing. The thing you want to look at is the Q max or the heat the unit can transfer, compare this to the power being input into your cpu/ whatever you are cooling, and if the Q of the TEC is greater than that of whatever you are cooling you can achieve a Temp lower than room temp. If your Q out of your Cpu is higher than your Q of your tec than you run warmer than room temp. The key is that you keep the other side of the TEC within both it's operating temperature and its max delta T via whatever cooling you have on the hot side, you should be able to find all the info online to do the math and find the temperature that your cpu will stabalize at look at. and using the device as a generator follows a seperate concept, it does work in reverse, but you have to find the peltier coefficent, turn that into the seebeck coefficent and then that will give you your voltage, simplest thing to do measure the temp diffrece accross the thing and measure the volts/amps produced
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