DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR

CAT# DLA-1
$5.50 each
Quantity:  
 
12 Vdc motor-drive actuator for automotive door locks. Nylon plunger moves 0.75". Push or pull, depending on polarity. Includes mounting hardware, metal strap and a 9.5" metal extension rod which fits through the hole in the end of the plunger. Overall dimensions of actuator assembly (retracted): 5.50" x 2.45" x 1.25". Rubber boot protects against moisture and dust. Pigtail leads.
Average Customer Review:  (49 Reviews) Write A Review

Customer Comments

Average Customer Review:  (49 Reviews) Write A Review

A customer from LAS VEGAS, NV USA
'01 Escape rear liftgate actuator replacement
I read everyone's comments and found them very helpful. I had to unplug the Ford wire connector, unclip the 3 threaded rods, and remove the 4 nuts & 1 screw on the latch assembly because the old actuator was screwed on from the inside. Once the old actuator was removed, I noticed that the I could not just snap on the new actuator to the old mounting parts so I did not use them. I used the holed metal strip included in the hardware kit and shaped it into a U. I attached one side of my U bracket to the latch assembly mounting plate with nuts & bolts that I had and the other side to the new actuator with screws from the kit. I then just bent & flattened my U bracket as needed so that the hole at the tip on the new actuator lined up to the mounting hole on the latch assembly. I then attached a screw that I had into the lined up holes at the tip of the new actuator. I cut off most of the bullet connectors on the new actuator and flattened out the ends with pliers so that it could be inserted & fit snugly into the Ford wire connector noting the green (new actuator) goes to striped (Ford) and the blue goes to the other one. I reattached the latch assembly and adjusted everthing to make sure it worked properly before I closed everything up. Took me a couple of hours mostly trying to figure out how to mount the new actuator without drilling new holes.

A customer from WORCESTER, MA USA
wonderful for new installs
I'm buying one of these to replace one I installed in my Chevy Cobalt (which didn't come with power locks) about 4 years ago. When I installed them at the time, and until now, they have worked well. I only had to drill two holes in my door sheet metal to install them in each door. Well worth the time and money.

Mark Scott from North Port, Fl
Everything you need!
Great product! Used it to install a power lock on a F350's driver door. Ran the leads to a switch (CAT# PB-144) hidden under the hood so I can unlock the truck in case the keys ever get locked inside. Gonna be great considering the truck is used by a bunch of people at the non-profit I volunteer with. No getting locked out on the road for us! =D

Came in a box indicating it was a Xpress P3500. Mine was a blue actuator. Came with the mounting and hookup hardware. One wire is green, one wire is blue. Just hook up power in the direction you want the actuator to move. Easy! Would def by again. ^_^

A customer from Chicago, IL
Best price and product for 2001 Ford Escape hatch repair
After calling my local Ford dealer and finding out it would cost $325 to repair my hatch that wouldn't open, I started looking. This is the best product I found. I read the comments (thanks for the wiring clue about the black striped wire to green) and didn't need to do any drilling. I removed the hatch lock assembly by taking out the 5 screws, removed the part that came attached at the end of the accordion rod of the old actuator and snapped the new one onto the existing part on the hatch. No drilling required, I used the flat rod in the kit with all the holes, placed it on the backside of the latch assembly and used the screws to pressure tighten the new actuator in place. There is a v-notch in the latch assembly that helps to hold all of it together. I spliced the wires together with electrical tape after cutting the Ford wiring socket off. The hardest part was getting the hatch open. To do that, pull the plastic interior off at the top to release the clips, open the window by pulling the release rod, then reach down to pull the latch rod. Remove the 4 screws on the bottom of the door and you' are in good shape. It took me about an hour to do this. BTW, I'm a 50 year old mom with some mechanical ability. Saved myself $313!! This actuator is more solid then the OEM. I can see why Ford wants to replace the whole latch assembly, it would be a much quicker install, but much more expensive.

A customer from Portland, OR
Loads of fun!
I once found one of these laying around. I hooked up four rectifiers, a capacitor and a flashlight bulb to make a little emergency flashlight.

Never knew its real purpose until now!