24 x 1 LCD

CAT# LCD-111
$1.00 each
10 to 161 $0.90 each
162 to 809 $0.75 each
810 or more $0.50 each
Quantity:  
 
Wintek # WDC2401P-1GNNA. Module size: 4.25" x 0.79" x 0.3". Display size: 3.5" x 0.4". Built-in driver. 14 pin male header, pins on 0.05" centers. Includes hook-up diagram.
Spec sheet available in PDF format.
Average Customer Review:  (33 Reviews) Write A Review

Customer Comments

Average Customer Review:  (33 Reviews) Write A Review

Mark Murnane from Laurel Md
Excellent Product
Although they are rather a small display, they have good contrast which is important because they have no backlight. I found an excellent tutorial for using them with the arduino: http://cratel.wichita.edu/blogs/jeffweide/2008/05/11/arduino-and-the-hitachi-lcd-display-driver/

Highly recommend these displays.

Thaddues Dryja from New York, NY
Nice little LCD -- some tips
It's a nice, small LCD, for very cheap. Works fine and no need for a pot for contrast control, can be done in software (although in practice it is always set to maximum contrast.)

Header is a bit more annoying to work with than if it were .1" but there isn't really room on the board for that. And sure a backlight would also have been nice, as well as some easy way to get I2C (all mine have epoxy covering all the vias mentioned here) but works great for what it is.

Great for low power / battery projects, but a few things:

First, it needs 5V, and won't operate off 3.3V, but most LCDs are like that.

Second, and I haven't seen this mentioned anywhere: current consumption changes a lot based on what state the d0-d7 pins are in. To minimize current consumption, put the whole bus high, or tristate, in between commands to the LCD module. I'm not sure why but I'm guessing it's because they are open drain inputs and so the pull up resistors eat a little power when the d0-d7 pins are being pulled down.

Using a PIC mcu and after putting my 8-bit data bus high in between writes, current consumption went down from around 1.6mA to a mere 0.13mA (130 uA). In most cases you would never notice but if you're making a solar powered or otherwise low powered project that can be a big difference.

A customer from Seattle Washington
About Repeated characters
This is regarding the post from "a customer.....asfdsa" who gets unwanted repeated characters.

You need to de-bounce the Enable pulse trigger. (pin 6 of the LCD)
The enable pulse needed to send a character to the display is of a very short duration, and any noise/ripple will be interpreted as multiple pulses by the LCD.

Here is a LCD tutorial that I found helpful.
http://www.electronics-lab.com/articles/lcd/lcd1.pdf

It's a two part article that shows how to hook-up a LCD with switches, and then goes on to explain using a MCU with the LCD. A de-bounce switch is also Illustrated.

A customer from Colorado
Pin 3 (Controller Reset?)
On most applications of a 14 pin lcd the 3rd pin is wired to a potentiometer or known resistance to set the contrast of the lcd screen. In this products case the pin is labeled Controller Reset. I am not sure what to do with this pin and cant get anything to display on the lcd, I would assume tie it low but that doesn't work either. Any suggestions

A customer from TX
Data transfer mode
IM0 and IM1 are right next to each other. I removed some of the epoxy stuff and it seem that the two pins above IM1(if that is IM1 from the other posts) are connected. The data sheet says this is SFT and controls the segment display.

It might be possible solder a magnet wire after splitting the junction. it would be pretty difficult to do though but not necessarily impossible.

Since for 4-bit mode you need both VCC but it is grounded in 8-bit, I imagine you can cut IM0 from SFT, solder it to IM1, cut IM1 from ground and jump it to Vcc.

Since SFT is ground(or should be), to get into I2C mode you would simply remove the connection to the via on IM1 and jump it to IM0 which it is right next too(a bit of solder should do it).

To get into 4-bit you need to cut IM0 and jump it to IM1. This will probably require removing a little of the epoxy.

To get into clocked serial you would need to swap IM1 and IM0. This is the hardest because it would probably require two jumpers and cutting both.