TECHNIKS "PRESS & PEEL" PC BOARD KIT

CAT# TEK-5
$11.95 each
2 to 4 $8.75 each
5 or more $7.50 each
Quantity:  
 
Thousands of people have dis-covered the easiest and quickest way to transfer pc board patternsto copper-clad board is PRESS-N-PEEL by Techniks. Works great with CAD and PCB layouts as well as artwork from magazines and books.No need for photochemicals or darkroom; use a photocopier or laser printer to transfer your design to the special PRESS-N-PEEL film. Then, simply iron the design onto a clean copper-clad board with a household iron. Peel off the film, and the board is ready for etching (etchant solution not included). Trace widths of 5 mil and less are possible with this method. We've seen excellent results with this system. PRESS-N-PEEL consist of five 8 1/2" X 11" sheets of transfer film and complete instructions.


Spec sheet available in PDF format.
Average Customer Review:  (29 Reviews) Write A Review

Customer Comments

Average Customer Review:  (29 Reviews) Write A Review

A customer from MONTGOMERY, AL USA
Got Brother to work
First let me say thanks for all the great reviews. I took lessons from everyone and in 2 days, I might could run 0.002" lines using, of all things, a brother laser printer which the manufacturer confirmed by email "brother printers of any kind won't work". I am using cheap BT201 ink rather than what comes from the manufacturer. My PCB program does not allow 0.002" lines, but my printer made an ink "scratch" mark all the way across the image which came out in the copper and I had to get a 20x loupe magnifying glass to estimate the width on the order of 0.001" comparing it to lines. I use really fine sandpaper (400 grit silicon carbide) on the copper to give it something to grab onto and remove any oxidation, followed by a quick comet cleaning. Without the sandpaper (much finer than steel wool), the ink does not stick as well. With the sandpaper, the ink absolutely refuses to come off except with carb cleaner (methyl ethyl ketone...nasty stuff to be done outside). Acetone someone mentioned did not work. Alcohol and mineral spirits also did not work. If you don't have carb cleaner, then just use the comet (no sanding) and peel it off and etch more carefully. Ironing was OK, but I really like the 1/16 to 1/8 inch silicone sheet method on top of the Press-N-Peel someone mentioned, using metal plates on the front and back (sandwich) with clamps to hold it to the board. The silicon can take 400 F and transmits heat well enough while keeping even pressure. The reviewer said 300 F for 20 minutes, but I just had great success with 350 F for 15 in a pre-heated toaster oven (small board, small pair of clamps fairly tight, maybe too tight). One clamp raised the pattern off the board at an edge. 10 minutes might be just as good, and too long might cause more running of the ink outside of the strict pattern. I can't scratch the ink off with my fingernail. I'm drilling before etching so that I can see the dark-contrast holes better. Leaving as much copper as possible to save echant. Had to learn to preheat the Ferric chloride and water solution so that it would work in 5 minutes instead of an hour. I'm doing like another mentioned and first printing the pattern on paper, cutting the Press-N-Peel to size, then using scotch tape on the leading edge of the Press-N-Peel on top of the paper image, then re-run it through the printer again. Dull side gets the ink. So thanks to all the reviews which gave me all the ideas:
1) silicone sandwich in oven
2) very fine sanding so it sticks better *if* you have carb cleaner
3) too much coarse sanding causes runs in the pattern
3) use comet until you see the water does not bead up
4) drill before etching
5) scotch tape on leading edge of cut-to-size Press-N-Peel on paper gogin through printer
6) maybe use a laminator if you start doing a lot, or youtube shows direct-to-board printing with modified ink jets.
7) expressPCB has great layout software
8) layout parts so you can see where they go and place them in neat rows to make drilling easier.

A customer from ALBUQUERQUE, NM USA
A system that works
I have made printed circuit boards for years, using Datak positive coated circuit board material and inkjet or laser printer transparencies. I use a contact frame and the full sun to expose the coated boards. I have trouble getting enough contrast (dark enough blacks) to get un-etched traces with any exposure and development using
Datak developer. I have used both ferric chloride and hydrochloric acid / hydrogen peroxide etchants. The ferric chloride requires more care in handling and disposal, but I think the etching is more controllable. With toner transfer and glossy cheap paper I have had multiple failures due to either paper jams in the laser printer, or great difficulty in removing the paper after transfer. With the Press and Peel, the sheet just falls off in cold water,leaving a solid transfer on the copper. I use a small iron designed for applying wood laminates to plywood edges (from Woodworkers Supply) to iron the toner to the copper. Just print the artwork on regular paper, and the cut a piece of Press and Peel to cover the printed artwork, Tape it over the artwork and print again in the same orientation. Cut the paper with the Press and Peel still attached and place both onto the copper (the paper will protect the transfer sheet from the iron) I drill 2 small holes in the copper board, to suspend the board in the etchant with fishing line, and etch in a vertical tank. It is easy to lift the board to agitate the etchant and inspect the progress of etching with the fishing line.

A customer from Ninole, Hawaii
TEK-5
Can't get it to work after several tries. Takes a long time for the ink to dry after printing. Using HP deskjet. Going back to silkscreen.

A customer from -
Worked Great!
The first time I didn't iron long enough, but the second time it worked great. I used the sponge method.

A customer from z
This is awsome
this transfer film is worth the money it works awesome and i just follow the instructions.
and i suggest u don't waste time using the "put pcb in echant and wait" method, instead take a cellulose sponge and saturate it with ferric chloride then rub the pcb then the copper will disapear after +-5 rubs. it takes 30 sec to etch!