24 X 1 LCD - INCREDIBLE PRICE

CAT# LCD-111

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2 for $1.00
2 piece minimum order
50 to 161 $0.45 each
162 to 809 $0.40 each
810 or more $0.35 each
77036 Available
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We have a huge quantity of these nice, 24 x 1 character LCDs, which is why we can offer them at such an amazing price. This is by far the most affordable LCD we've ever carried. See the customer comments for lots of info about working with them.

Wintek # WDC2401P-1GNNA
Module size: 4.25" x 0.79" x 0.3"
Display size: 3.5" x 0.4"

Built-in driver. 14 pin male header, pins on 0.05" centers. Includes hook-up diagram.
Spec sheet available in PDF format.
Average Customer Review:  (35 Reviews) Write A Review

Customer Comments

Average Customer Review:  (35 Reviews) Write A Review

A customer from Seattle Washington
About Repeated characters
This is regarding the post from "a customer.....asfdsa" who gets unwanted repeated characters.

You need to de-bounce the Enable pulse trigger. (pin 6 of the LCD)
The enable pulse needed to send a character to the display is of a very short duration, and any noise/ripple will be interpreted as multiple pulses by the LCD.

Here is a LCD tutorial that I found helpful.
http://www.electronics-lab.com/articles/lcd/lcd1.pdf

It's a two part article that shows how to hook-up a LCD with switches, and then goes on to explain using a MCU with the LCD. A de-bounce switch is also Illustrated.

A customer from Seattle, WA
changing to I2C mode: possible with PCB surgery
I bought 10 of these displays, so I had the luxury of destroying one to find out if there's a way to get at the IM1/IM0 lines. Turns out, yes there is, but it's not pretty. The IM0 line is basically not accessible in any sane manner, but there is a via which connects the IM1 line to VCC, right at the edge of the epoxy blob covering the chip. With some *very* careful surgery, you can slice off part of the top of this via, leaving it connected to the trace going under the blob. This disconnects it from VCC, and you can then connect it to GND, which puts the HD66717 into I2C mode. 4-bit mode is not possible because you'd need to change IM0 for this. I'll post a link to photos/diagrams in a few days if anyone is interested. This is *not* for the faint of heart, and I'd suggest buying more than one so you won't feel so bad if you screw up.

Oh, and BTW, removing the epoxy blob is just about 100% certain to destroy the unit, just so you know.


A customer from CLEVELAND, OH US
Data Sheet Link
This link may be easier to get to for the data sheet:

http://gaw.ru/pdf/lcd/Chips/Hitachi/hd66717.pdf

Thanks to Andy Wong for locating this in the first place.

Thaddues Dryja from New York, NY
Nice little LCD -- some tips
It's a nice, small LCD, for very cheap. Works fine and no need for a pot for contrast control, can be done in software (although in practice it is always set to maximum contrast.)

Header is a bit more annoying to work with than if it were .1" but there isn't really room on the board for that. And sure a backlight would also have been nice, as well as some easy way to get I2C (all mine have epoxy covering all the vias mentioned here) but works great for what it is.

Great for low power / battery projects, but a few things:

First, it needs 5V, and won't operate off 3.3V, but most LCDs are like that.

Second, and I haven't seen this mentioned anywhere: current consumption changes a lot based on what state the d0-d7 pins are in. To minimize current consumption, put the whole bus high, or tristate, in between commands to the LCD module. I'm not sure why but I'm guessing it's because they are open drain inputs and so the pull up resistors eat a little power when the d0-d7 pins are being pulled down.

Using a PIC mcu and after putting my 8-bit data bus high in between writes, current consumption went down from around 1.6mA to a mere 0.13mA (130 uA). In most cases you would never notice but if you're making a solar powered or otherwise low powered project that can be a big difference.

A customer from Indianapolis, IN US
Best LCD deal on the net.
I didn't have any problems getting this LCD to work. I documented what I found on my website:
http://www.serialwombat.com/parts/lcd111.htm