TECHNIKS "PRESS & PEEL" PC BOARD KIT

CAT# TEK-5
$11.95 each
2 to 4 $8.75 each
5 or more $7.50 each
Quantity:  
 
Thousands of people have dis-covered the easiest and quickest way to transfer pc board patterns to copper-clad board is PRESS-N-PEEL by Techniks. Works great with CAD and PCB layouts as well as artwork from magazines and books.No need for photochemicals or darkroom; use a photocopier or laser printer to transfer your design to the special PRESS-N-PEEL film. Then, simply iron the design onto a clean copper-clad board with a household iron. Peel off the film, and the board is ready for etching (etchant solution not included). Trace widths of 5 mil and less are possible with this method. We've seen excellent results with this system. PRESS-N-PEEL consist of five 8 1/2" X 11" sheets of transfer film and complete instructions.
Spec sheet available in PDF format.
Average Customer Review:  (30 Reviews) Write A Review

Customer Comments

Average Customer Review:  (30 Reviews) Write A Review

A customer from HIGHLANDS RANCH, CO US
Issues with etch resist
I tried and tried to get a good board with this until I figured out (using an IR thermometer) that the cheap iron I bought just for use with circuit boards wasn't getting near as hot as I thought it was. After that, I've been able to make good boards. My issue is that it isn't clear how to remove the etch resist. Maybe it depends with the toner used, but I've tried acetone with only marginal results. Scrubbing the board with steel wool and even sandpaper will leave the board substrate with a damaged look. Trying to solder through the resist leaves a smudgy look to the boards. Frankly, I still prefer a positive photo etch approach since I don't run into the etch resist problem. From a cost standpoint, however, the press&peel film is still cheaper than buying photosensitive boards.

A customer from Somewhere
Overpriced Photo Paper
This stuff is pretty much IDENTICAL to glossy photographic paper. I get great results with $.20 per sheet "Kinkos" glossy photographic paper (any kind should work), You just have to iron it for a shorter period of time, and you have to soak the paper off. The actual "etch resist" in both products is the printer toner (which is basically powdered plastic), not the paper.

A customer from Oklahoma City
Much better than Photo Paper
Indeed, you can use almost any kind of paper that you can run through your laser printer and get decent results after a short learning curve, but you have to SOAK the paper off, usually with some sort of mechanical agitation. This adds too much hassle and time. It also tends to dislodge some of the toner.
After I clean my board with a Scotch Brite pad, I put the Press N Peel on the board, sandwich it with some parchment paper and run it through my $5 laminator I got on Ebay. I cannot overemphasize how much better the results are using an old luggage tag laminator instead of an iron. I have the temp control turned up all the way and it shoots a board through in seconds. Consistency of temperature and pressure are critical - And impossible to achieve with an iron. I turn the board over and send it through again for good measure.
I wait for the board to cool for about thirty seconds, peel off the Press N Peel and I'm ready to etch (1 part Muratic acid to 2 parts plain, old Hydrogen Peroxide absolutely rocks!). I can do 8 mil traces with no problem and the material is thin enough that you can line up the two sides of a double sided board easily and tape two opposing sides together so you have a pcb "sandwich" that stays alligned. At least half of the boards I do are double-sided and I get consistently good results. PLENTY good for prototype and limited production work. If you need a bunch, don't mess with doing them yourself - Farm 'em out to China!

A customer from z
This is awsome
this transfer film is worth the money it works awesome and i just follow the instructions.
and i suggest u don't waste time using the "put pcb in echant and wait" method, instead take a cellulose sponge and saturate it with ferric chloride then rub the pcb then the copper will disapear after +-5 rubs. it takes 30 sec to etch!

A customer from Victoria, Canada
Board Cleanliness is Critical
I have made dozens of boards using this system including adaptor boards to convert TSSOP and even MLF/QFN to DIP for breadboarding using 5 Mil traces. I use an HP1320 laser printer (with HP toner). For excellent results every time, I found that cleaning the board is just as critical as the temperature of the iron. I believe this is the reason why the process works for some and not for others -- it works if the board is clean. To clean the board, if the surface is tarnished, I use ceramic cooktop cleaner to get rid of the tarnish. This is very midly abrasive. I found that ScotchBrite pads or steel wool scratched the copper surface badly so I don't recommend using either. Next, I clean the board with Comet cleaner. I make a paste by adding a bit of water (similar consistency to toothpaste) and scrub the board with a nail brush. Even though the board looks clean, I find I need to do this twice. Rince the board very well - make sure you have removed all traces of the paste. Test that the board is clean by running cold water over the board and shake the water off. Make sure the water does not "bead" anywhere. The water should tear away from the edges but not bead. Set the iron to the wool setting and iron for 2 min (for a 2" x 3" board) or 3 min (for a 3" x 4" board). I place the board on a cork pad. Once the transfer is complete, cool off the board immediately under cold running water and peel off the transfer sheet.