$11.95 each
2 to 4 $8.75 each
5 or more $7.50 each
Thousands of people have dis-covered the easiest and quickest way to transfer pc board patterns to copper-clad board is PRESS-N-PEEL by Techniks. Works great with CAD and PCB layouts as well as artwork from magazines and books.No need for photochemicals or darkroom; use a photocopier or laser printer to transfer your design to the special PRESS-N-PEEL film. Then, simply iron the design onto a clean copper-clad board with a household iron. Peel off the film, and the board is ready for etching (etchant solution not included). Trace widths of 5 mil and less are possible with this method. We've seen excellent results with this system. PRESS-N-PEEL consist of five 8 1/2" X 11" sheets of transfer film and complete instructions.
Spec sheet available in PDF format.
Average Customer Review:  (30 Reviews) Write A Review

Customer Comments

Average Customer Review:  (30 Reviews) Write A Review

A customer from HIGHLANDS RANCH, CO US
Issues with etch resist
I tried and tried to get a good board with this until I figured out (using an IR thermometer) that the cheap iron I bought just for use with circuit boards wasn't getting near as hot as I thought it was. After that, I've been able to make good boards. My issue is that it isn't clear how to remove the etch resist. Maybe it depends with the toner used, but I've tried acetone with only marginal results. Scrubbing the board with steel wool and even sandpaper will leave the board substrate with a damaged look. Trying to solder through the resist leaves a smudgy look to the boards. Frankly, I still prefer a positive photo etch approach since I don't run into the etch resist problem. From a cost standpoint, however, the press&peel film is still cheaper than buying photosensitive boards.

A customer from Somewhere
Overpriced Photo Paper
This stuff is pretty much IDENTICAL to glossy photographic paper. I get great results with $.20 per sheet "Kinkos" glossy photographic paper (any kind should work), You just have to iron it for a shorter period of time, and you have to soak the paper off. The actual "etch resist" in both products is the printer toner (which is basically powdered plastic), not the paper.

A customer from Victoria, Canada
Board Cleanliness is Critical
I have made dozens of boards using this system including adaptor boards to convert TSSOP and even MLF/QFN to DIP for breadboarding using 5 Mil traces. I use an HP1320 laser printer (with HP toner). For excellent results every time, I found that cleaning the board is just as critical as the temperature of the iron. I believe this is the reason why the process works for some and not for others -- it works if the board is clean. To clean the board, if the surface is tarnished, I use ceramic cooktop cleaner to get rid of the tarnish. This is very midly abrasive. I found that ScotchBrite pads or steel wool scratched the copper surface badly so I don't recommend using either. Next, I clean the board with Comet cleaner. I make a paste by adding a bit of water (similar consistency to toothpaste) and scrub the board with a nail brush. Even though the board looks clean, I find I need to do this twice. Rince the board very well - make sure you have removed all traces of the paste. Test that the board is clean by running cold water over the board and shake the water off. Make sure the water does not "bead" anywhere. The water should tear away from the edges but not bead. Set the iron to the wool setting and iron for 2 min (for a 2" x 3" board) or 3 min (for a 3" x 4" board). I place the board on a cork pad. Once the transfer is complete, cool off the board immediately under cold running water and peel off the transfer sheet.

A customer from MOSS BEACH, CA US
Have made more than a dozen PCBs with P&P
Tips: (1) Clean the blank PCB with Brasso or a copper-pot cleaner -- an abrasive is not necessary. (2) Put a magazine under the PCB for thermal insulation. (3) Put one sheet of paper over the P&P and PCB. (4) Set the iron to Wool, then use an IR thermometer to adjust to about 280-290F. (5) Press fairly hard with the iron, slowly move it around and let the PCB heat-soak for a minute or two. Make sure you heat-soak the PCB edges and corners. (6) Use the IR therm to measure about 275F as you slide the iron away -- you're done. (7) Let cool a bit, then optionally put under running water. (8) Dry and carefully peel one corner away. (9) If part of the P&P is not stuck to the PCB you can probably fix it (step 3...). (10) Slowly peel away the P&P. (11) Use a solvent, NOT an abrasive, to remove the toner -- I like "Oops!" from Ace HW. (12) Drill thru-holes with a Dremel. (13) If you're not going to solder it immediately, paint the PCB with liquid solder-flux to prevent oxiditation of the Cu.

A customer from BELLWOOD, IL US
Press-n-Peel is worth the money!
Some tips: Copper must be totally clean. If you use an abrasive, wash the board with dish soap to remove fine particles, rinse well, dry promptly. This is a must!! Even pressure and heat is key! Forget the iron and make your own press! Sandwich the film against the board between two pieces of 1/4" aluminum with a silicone foam pad (McMaster-Carr #86235K42) between one plate and the film. Apply C-clamps for pressure. 20 minutes in the oven at 300 degrees, 20 minutes to cool. Perfect even on warped boards! Use acetone or xylol to remove resist. Solder or tin plate immediately.